A visit to the Arhuaco Indigenous Community in Katanzama

The Arhuaco share the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, the highest coastal region in the world with mountains reaching up to 5,700 metres, with three other indigenous peoples: the Kogis, Wiwas, and Kankuamos. They are considered descendants of the pre-Columbian Tairona culture, which dates back to the 1st century AD. They have a complex life philosophy based on the primacy of nature and an immutable law of existence. 

An unhappy recent history includes imposition of Capuchin missionaries booted out in 1983, and recent conflicts with military over sacred sites, and more conflict with narcotraficantes.

Tribal dress is distinctive white clothing. Subsistence farming is common, including the cultivation of coca leaves which are chewed with a lime paste to extract the juice which is a mild intoxicant, totally different in form and effect to the cocaine extracted with chemicals for supercharged potency in the global drug market by the narcotraficantes.

Mercedes, our Arhuaco guide, was able to walk through the forest and spot howler monkeys, iguanas and birds high in the canopy while also sewing a new bag.

She took us to her village to see her 58 years old Dad with whom we had a long chat whilst he chewed and dabbed lime on his mouthful of coca leaves.

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Colombia, Arhuaco, Indigenous Community, Katanzama