Places We Like to Nomad: Are there or aren’t there serpents on Hiva Oa: we ask Tania

Sunday, 28 April 2024

Are there or aren’t there serpents on Hiva Oa: we ask Tania

Breakfast with jovial Tania is hilarious. I ask if the island has snakes and she says, no, but with her trademark chuckle, you see, we might.

She recounts how a few years back, two travellers from South America arrived in a bay in the north of the island on their sailing yacht, then brought their pet snakes on land and, I'm not sure why, let them loose to scavenge for rats whilst comforting the locals there was no danger: these were not poisonous serpents (my guess, they were anacondas - constrictors). The locals totally freaked out, called in the mairie/mayor for help. The local veterinary clinic captured the beasts and dissected them to see if they had laid eggs. So, maybe there are or maybe there aren't serpents on Hiva Oa.

Tania's tip of the weekend is to keep an eye on the roulotte in the port which provides good food at reasonable prices and might even feature a special performance of a lady gyrating in 'un string noir' (black g-string). Robert says: hold my beer, need to get my glasses!

Sunshine again this morning, so we drive past flower-crowned ladies exiting from the local church, and continue uphill to the cemetery where Jacques Brel and Paul Gauguin both have frangipani-shaded graves with views far out to sea above the town.

Next, we take a 20 minute drive along the coast to Ta’aoa village and a steep climb to Upeke, the site of the largest Polynesian ceremonial centre, a vast space paved with volcanic stones and site foundations for ceremonial huts, including those for sacrifice and, it seems, a taste of human flesh.

The ancients certainly knew to choose a site of overawing 'mana' or spirit. A huge breadfruit tree rained overripe fruit below in fulsomely fertile, white splashes, reeking of sour earth underfoot. An equally huge banyan tree stood guard higher up above the stones.

Back to Atuona for pricey lunch of disappointing goat in coconut sauce, followed by flan with a burnt bottom. Perhaps that’s what should happen to the cook. Still, lovely view of the bay from the restaurant terrace, and Sunday being a day of rest, you eat where you can.