Places We Like to Nomad: Kalgan Pool Road, Pilbara

We do the morning drive on dirt corrugations, rattling through classic mining country.

Flashing lights bring us to a halt. Two massive, road trains carrying Monster mining trucks crawl past occupying the full width of the road.

We hit smooth tarmac, then head for the BHP Rail Access Road (permit obtained online in 5 minutes) along the famous mining rail line that runs 100s of kms to the coast. Jinking away from the road through tracks, we have a slight navigational puzzle following our gps blue dot on offroad mapping. More c-c-corrugation follows. We deflate, then drop into 4wd.

Big fun ahead. Three water crossings, including the longest we've ever done, around 600m inside the Kalgan creek, following the reedy waterway on a rocky, but firm riverbed. What excitement! It feels like we are amphibious.

More winding, narrow tracks pass imposing bluffs skirted with spinifex. Then we arrive at Kalgan Pool. This magic site comprises the pool circled by riversand, backed by a rugged rockface, surrounded by tall trees.

Just us here, some curious cattle, and birds taking their afternoon dip. A playful, heavily pregnant cow finds a dangling swing rope which she munches happily for half an hour fulfilling cravings only pregnant mums know.

Happy hour merges into campfire time. Crackling flames light up Hughie and stars and scudding clouds above. The Bush at its best.

Early next morning, we hear very loud clattering of a whirlybird overhead. Lo and behold, it lands neatly in this tiny area in a cloud of dust beside the pool.

I wander over for a chat as a team emerges. The aliens in high vis jackets are an ecology team researching water quality, fish, diving beetles and the other wonders that lurk in the depths of the pool. Every day something new is our motto.

Next day, Gen draws up a chair in the shade beside the Pool and captures images of flocks of Spinifex pigeons, zebra finches, Western bowerbirds and more.

In the afternoon, three vehicles rock up separately. A very worried couple exit their top of the range 2022 Ford Ranger and lift the bonnet. They want to know if there is a way to return to Newman without going back through the water crossings because their engine is fixed in limp home mode after taking in water. Oh dear, does not sound good. We had the same problem when we drowned our Patrol in Scrubby Creek on Cape York – limp home, then write off. We give the couple a squiz at my mapping of a land only return route. They take a picture and set off with our best wishes.

Katlin and Gordon, young 20 somethings, are youtubing their offroad adventures in a 2012, FJ Cruiser Commemorative edition vehicle.

Amy and Finn, a delightful teenage couple from country Victoria, are on a whirlwind pre-university, 8-week lap in a 25-year-old Toyota Troopy without aircon.

We all instantly get along, pulling up chairs with wine and beers for hours of chatting about the joys of a Lap on a shoestring; hairy crossings of the Mitchell River below Kowanyama, Cape York; snakes; reasons why Brazilians love Australia; and the trend started in the US for not accepting mistakes as own responsibility, but rather seeking to blame and sue other entities. Really lovely bit of socialising outside our age group.

In the morning, we walk up the hillside on a steep, rutted track to sweeping views across the gorge and down to our campsite at Kalgan Pool below. It is a rough road: do hope the Ford Ranger returned in one piece.