Exmouth
is tucked away in a remote north western peninsula of Western
Australia. Further round the cape is beautiful Cape Range National Park
which stretches beside the Ningaloo reef system, 300km in length and a
rival for the Great Barrier Reef.
We
stayed at Osprey campsite, a lovely open beach landscape with turquoise
sea and scrubland. Our first evening, we had a wallaby with joey in
pouch come to us to slurp a bowl of water.
Next
day we donned snorkelling gear and swam in the warm waters of the reef
where we saw lots of sea slugs, like giant dog turds, munching on the
seafloor. Electric blue fishes, stripey zebra fishes, and a large fish
standing sentinel outside a hole in the coral, caught my eye as we
snorkelled.
Above
the surface a raging offshore wind was chasing choppy waves and forcing
campers to take in their awnings. Mid-afternoon, the wind changed
direction and abated in time for drinks and the arrival of a sand
lizard, beautifully mottled, outside the campervan.
The sunset seen from the beach was glorious, and to cap it all, we saw humpback whales breaching in the last rays of the sun.
Our
neighbours were sporty grey nomads with a boatski to reach the reef.
They mentioned an acquaintance who had spent much planning and money on a
roo bar for their big trip in a 4wd, only for a kangaroo to run, not
into the front, but the side door!
As
we left Exmouth, about 50km away, we came across a spectacular road
train rollover with a smashed cab and trailer blocking the road for
three hours whilst a giant crane and frontloader pushed and heaved it
aside.










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