Irvinebank: A Spur of the Moment Decision

Starting before dawn from Rifle Creek, our intended target was Mt Lewis but we chickened out at the sight of the narrow track with overhanging branches. Instead, we looked for birds at Abattoir Swamp and behind a truckstop near Mareeba. 

On a whim, we continued across the Tablelands to Herberton, then a further 60kms of dirt road, steep climbs over forests, and creek crossings in bright sunlight, to the community of Irvinebank, a tin mining hub from the late 1800s to 1950s.

 

What a peaceful place, dotted with old buildings, slumbering beside the creek that bisects the town of 150 inhabitants.

Refreshed by the cooler climate and breezes, we peeked at the Irvinebank School of Arts and Progress Association building, Loudoun House, where John Moffat, the Scottish boss, lived beside the tin mine, and the nearby, old tramway station for the small gauge line.

Our campsite, in the grassy park beside the stream, is next to the pub and overlooked by the old Post Office.

The Tavern has been going since the late 1800s. Tonight we visited for a chat with the barman, a local knowledgeable on all things mustering, mechanical issues, traffic accidents, and even up for a chat with our fellow customers about the legendary Indigenous medicinal herb, gumbi gumbi.

Outside, the elegant fuel pump from a bygone era, complete with chair for the refuelling wait, dispenses refreshment for passing traffic.

By good luck we had rolled up on a Friday, in time for the evening Arts and Progress Building Association's social drinks and barbie, held every 2 weeks to raise funds for upkeep.

The impressive building has a magnificent, wooden floor, scene of some merry dancing in times past. Problems with microbats pooing on the floor require frequent cleaning.

Locals and tourists arrive for a yarn with drinks and barbecued sausages, hamburgers and kebabs.

Such a warm, friendly atmosphere as we meet the old timer from up the hill. He's been here 22 years. His water is gravityfed from the town dam, and power comes direct from Herberton. He answers tactfully and easily that the population gets along fine.

Lou, who has a friend who leads local photography tours, is keen to share his details, maybe drum up some business?

Meanwhile, due to there being several greybeards at the bar sporting goatees, Gen reckons she's talking to one she had met earlier, grabs me for an introduction, sits us down at his table, only to realise he is someone else! 

In fact the couple had been schoolteachers in Irvinebank for 20 years, then moved to Cairns for 20 years, before moving to Mareeba for cooler climate. Hubby, who was completely unfazed by Gen's brisk hijacking, was long a nature tour guide in Daintree.

He wistfully reminisced how he spent 1986 looking after mine rehabilitation in Iron Range, with all its splendid wildlife, including Papuan pittas, palm cockatoos, and orange billed kingfishers. The first sighting of palm cockatoos using a stick to drum was made there at that time.

At the bar, we met straight talking Lachlan, owner of bush property 40kms away. He has 400 wild horses. When I ask about him running one in the Melbourne Cup, he proudly recounts how one of his horses was indeed a winner in the Punsand Trophy race at Bamaga. Years ago, he used to work on Brunette Downs station in NT with mustering, but as of next month he's ready to go travelling again back to Kimberley, Lake Eyre, and Birdsville Races.

Adding to the social mix are happy, retiree tourists, our campsite neighbours, up from Wongaling Beach, next to Mission Beach.

The chatty bar attendant gives us a tip to see waterbirds at an unsignposted lagoon nearby.

Our evening socialising done, we head back across the bridge, passing excited kids at the creek spotlighting the water for redclaw yabbies and catfish.

What an enjoyable day. One of the perks of travelling: spur of the moment decisions.

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Irvinebank, FNQ, Far North Queensland, Atherton Tablelands, Mining Town, Tin Mine