Opened to the outside world in 1983, the Bungle Bungle Range in Purnululu National Park is one of the most striking geological landmarks in Western Australia. The beehive domes structures found in the southern end of the park are the most exceptional examples of cone karst formations in the world – one of the reasons why the national park was World Heritage listed in 2003.
Fast forward 10 years and what a difference it makes being here early, just as the national park opens. The notorious 53km dirt and shockie busting road in is a panoramic delight, freshly graded, just like a baby's bottom with just a couple of pimple corrugations and all creeks passable for our bus.
No crowding in the campground, just us by the dry creekbed.
As the midday heat builds, we walk the dry creekbed, lined with tropical livingstona palms, which leads into the cool embrace of Echidna Chasm. A shaft of sunlight pierces the darkness to the floor. Magic.
We continue along dry creekbeds, delicately patterned with pebbles, then venture into a narrow gorge at the end of which is a giant natural amphitheatre with a pool in the centre. The acoustics are superb, voices float, the spirit lifts.
In the evening, we return to witness the Milky Way and shooting stars etched in the darkness high above the massive outlines of the beehive rocks. All is quiet, just the occasional hoot of owls conversing.
Another early start sees us heading up Picaninny Gorge, following the broad, eroded rockbed of the creek, like a liquid torrent turned to stone, then turning into a side valley to reach the imposing lookout.
As we return, we spot trees on the top of the domed rocks and strange termite mounds dribbling upwards to rock shelves high above. Robert's adrenaline percolated as a large, black snake shot across the path in front.
For our last morning, we are treated to a spectacular sunrise from our campground.
Fast forward 10 years and what a difference it makes being here early, just as the national park opens. The notorious 53km dirt and shockie busting road in is a panoramic delight, freshly graded, just like a baby's bottom with just a couple of pimple corrugations and all creeks passable for our bus.
No crowding in the campground, just us by the dry creekbed.
As the midday heat builds, we walk the dry creekbed, lined with tropical livingstona palms, which leads into the cool embrace of Echidna Chasm. A shaft of sunlight pierces the darkness to the floor. Magic.
Next day is a dawn start to see the beehive strata and their carpets of spinifex bathed in golden light. Not a whisper of wind. The silence is punctuated with the crystal fluting calls of a butcher bird. Such an aura to this place.
We continue along dry creekbeds, delicately patterned with pebbles, then venture into a narrow gorge at the end of which is a giant natural amphitheatre with a pool in the centre. The acoustics are superb, voices float, the spirit lifts.
In the evening, we return to witness the Milky Way and shooting stars etched in the darkness high above the massive outlines of the beehive rocks. All is quiet, just the occasional hoot of owls conversing.
Another early start sees us heading up Picaninny Gorge, following the broad, eroded rockbed of the creek, like a liquid torrent turned to stone, then turning into a side valley to reach the imposing lookout.
For our last morning, we are treated to a spectacular sunrise from our campground.
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Purnululu, Bungle Bungle, Bungle Bungles, Echidna Chasm, Cathedral Gorge, Western Australia
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