Brazil - Santarem - Alter do Chao - Ilha do Amor

A short flight from Belem took us to the Amazon riverport of Santarem. Out of curiosity, we asked at the local agency if we could hire a boat to look around the river region for a day. Next day, we turned up for a tour expecting to share with a group, only to find we had a large two storey boat completely to ourselves - along with guide, driver, fresh fruit, hammocks, and a dinghy...for the princely sum of US$35 each.

 At Lago do Maica, we floated in the dinghy through the sunlit flooded forest.

Later, we motored out to the Meeting of the Waters, where black, tannin-filled water from the Rio Tapajos meets the milky, silt-laden, faster flowing Amazon River, and due to their different speeds and composition they meet without mixing for a long distance.





Next stop was a short air hop to Alter do Chao on the confluence of the Rio Tapajos and the Amazon River. The hotel asked if we minded that the only room left was in a tree house. Well, bring it on, what a delight.

Enjoying our caipirinha cocktails in the evening, I idly stood in the treehouse doorway and Gen told me to look up. There was a perfectly beautiful tarantula. For a while, I nervously eyed our visitor who kept to the ceiling until we nodded off, leaving the tarantula to its nocturnal wanderings. Sweet dreams are made of this!

In the dry season, the water level of the Rio Tapajos drops several metres to reveal sandy beaches, including the popular Ilha do Amor (Love Island) where enterprising boats paddle you out to makeshift bars or barracas. The smokey aromas from barbecues waft out of the bars to the bouncy beat of Brazilian music. Tables placed in the water cater to thirsty swimmers. Nothing quite beats a sunset caipirinha!