We then refuelled with four 20l jerry cans. Bush fuel is super expensive at $2.5 per litre because of the need to truck it in 1000km from Darwin.
We get directions to the Beach, but after two hours of driving we are stopped by a massive washout. Turning back, we try a few other tracks where we are stymied again. Nothing for it but to take the comfort option with a spin on the blacktop of the Old Haul Road, then bounce our way up the Yinyinti Track past brumbies with foals to Nanny's Retreat, a lovely rock pool accessed by a shady path along the creek.
Our first choice campsite is taken, so we camp back from the road and cook lamb stew on our campfire. Beautiful bush life. Birdsong and kookaburra cackling slowly peters out into the darkness where the stars twinkle.
Next morning we walk the pandanus-edged trail to the rockpool for a cool, refreshing dip in the fernlined gully. This is our top spot at Lorella Springs so far.
We chat to the couple from the other campsite who are soaking in the pool and leaving after noon. Hotfoot we follow the couple back, wait for them to pack, then pop into their vacated site with its shade, a pretty creek, and whippersnippered grass. At the back, is a gurgling stream with a convenient pool just big enough to fit us.
Next up is to light a campfire to bake a yummy citrus sultana bread in the campoven.
As the light fades, a fabulous, blue-eyed pheasant coucal appears right beside us to chase bugs energetically without minding our presence.
Next afternoon, a couple we knew from lockdown in Alice turn up with their 10-year old twin boys. A delightful family. We spend the evening round the blazing campfire, telling stories, sipping red wine, and enjoying the bush. Gone are TV and Internet; back comes conversation.
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Lorella Springs, Northern Territory, NT















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