Dipping into the West MacDonnell Ranges

Returning to Glen Helen after 5 years, the hooligan sulphur-crested cockatoo who used to attack women and windscreen rubber, was gone, but the receptionist reported daily visits by a huge, house-proud perentie obsessed with the laundry and the dish washing-up area.

Close by, Ormiston Gorge rewarded with a short hike amid the ever welcoming swarms of flies, but they were repelled with facenets until we tried to take a quick swig from the water bottle, then it was time to repel boarders! 

Indigenous body painting for ceremonies requires copious amounts of ochre. We visited a rainbow-hued ochre pit that has been used for 1000s of years.

We camped overnight at Ellery Creek Big Hole, a lovely swimming spot where I skipped through the mud fringe and swam with the trusty facenet on my head giving me an alien appearance. One rock looked distinctly like bacon.