Cooktown Caper

Robert switched to a shift work pattern last month: six days on, six days off. Good reason to take off during a break in the Wet. First overnight was a free camp at Rifle Creek. Three gap year German ladies camped next to us in their campervan and asked if there were crocs. One of the ladies borrowed our cooker because they'd run out of gas. She was horrified when a big beauty of a cicada landed on the floor next to her foot.

Next morning we started off what proved to be an unlucky day by running over our eskie and footstool. The eskie was battered but still working and the footstool survived. Driving to Cooktown, a charming ground dove zonked itself by staying on the road and lifting off just as we went over it. Next up another bird, possibly a peaceful dove, flew from beside the road full wallop into the wing mirror so that was eternal peace. Then we stopped for lunch and Gen knocked a glass off the table only for it to smash. 

Our aim was to reach Endeavour Falls Camping Park. Given our run of bad luck, I cautiously asked the manager of the lovely looking place if we could stay.The answer was no because two weeks earlier a massive lightning strike had blown up all the underground and overground power cables in the campsite. 

Leaving our excess bottles of wine there, we continued to the 'dry ' surrounding region intending to reach Elim Beach. We progressed from bitumen to dirt road until we were stopped in our tracks by a large mudlined creek that looked waaay too boggy. 

Just as we turned around, I was mortified to drive over a snake. Seriously, it wasn't our day. So we backtracked past lush green landscapes thriving on the Wet. 

Our destination was Orchid campground in Cooktown where we lazed blissfully in the pool; then battled with the pesky sandflies by spraying thick layers of repellent before retiring to bed cooled by a strong fan.

Next day we looked around the town. Fine weather on the harbour front showed off the statues, mosaics and most recent construction of an entertainment promenade. 

Across town we found the heritage-listed cemetery with a variety of past characters inscribed on headstones, including Elisabeth Jardine, and a Chinese cemetery tucked in the far corner. 

Back at Orchid camp Gen read the wondrous email stating she had finally, after exactly a year of impossible wrangling, received her French pension. Shock turned to joy and the clink of glasses to celebrate. 

During the night, it rained heavily and for about five minutes there was a definite smell of feral poo, possibly a possum letting loose on the strangler fig tree above us.

Another fine day followed which saw us visiting Grassy Hill, Captain Cook's historic lookout in 1770. Large numbers of worms had wiggled onto the memorial pavers and died. 

Next stop was the Saturday market on the main street where old timers, out of towners, and traders circulated.

Leaving Cooktown, we went via Lions Den Hotel in Helensdale to Rossville where we followed a dirt track through creeks, including the Annan river where Aboriginal kids were having fun diving in.

The track ended at Home Rule Rainforest Lodge. The large grassy campsites included a lovely croc free, creekside pitch where we had a cooling dip. 

Local rowdies showed up to share the riverbank, so we made camp further away in the field. This is the site of the annual Wallaby Creek eco festival, a bit of a local FNQ rave for the green at heart.

We saw our first Dollarbird, hunting from a perch.