The lodge manages to provide tiptop service with beautiful villas (with outside tub filled with river water); dining and desserts to die for; guides to take you out into the forest for day hikes, night hikes; drives in an open truck; and even tubing down the Danum river which sweeps past the terrace of the dining area.
Our guide is Hendry, friendly without being overspirited.
On a night drive in a roaring truck, we see a deer, amazingly calm with the engine noise; and a colugo or flying lemur grasping tight on a tree trunk where it flicked its tongue in and out to lick sap.
Next day we are off at 7am for the jungle trek up the forested hills to the viewpoint which commands vistas of the lodge far down below beside the river and distant clouds floating above swathes of rainforest. Hi-tech has hit the jungle and Hendry uses his walkie talkie to radio our request to have the water tub outside the room filled for our return – pampered or what? Gen’s knee doesn’t play up for the 4.5 hour trek; and I sweat buckets which I replace with a godsent isotonic drink at the top when I’m gasping for breath.
At a junction below the viewpoint trail, we hike to the Coffin Cliff where 150 years ago the local nomadic tribe buried their dead in plain wooden coffins. The tribe kept on the move in the hope of avoiding skin disease (possibly leprosy), but have now settled around Lahad Datu. The last time their elders came out here for a ritual was some twenty years ago.
On the way down, we visit a waterfall for a face wash; choosing modesty in case we skinny-dipped, Hendry stayed behind.
He then shows us a beautiful agamid lizard, clinging like a chamaeleon sentinel to a branch on the trail.
Back at the room I clamber into the outdoor tub – God that feels sooo good and cooling – thank you river for your water.
Almost as soon as I was finished with my soak, we heard loud chirruping, then a small yellow sicklebird knocked itself out on the window and slumped to the floor. As soon as it was ready to show signs of life again, it was back at it attacking its reflection with more angry chirrups. Talk about knocking yourself out!
Next day we were up at 4am to drive in the dark for an hour in a massive, lifted 4wd to the old fire lookout tower next to the GAW (Atmosphere Climate Measuring tower). On the road, several sambar deer scampered out of the way. At the fire lookout tower, we climbed up to the platform and watched the dawn unfold. First glints of yellow and pink turned to streaks of colour across the horizon with the elegant soaring shape of a mengaris tree looming close in the foreground.
The lovely song of gibbons drifted out of the forest which was wreathed in long ribbons of cloud and mist stretching as far as the eye could see. The birdsong symphony struck up a chorus of chirping, calling, trills, warbles, and knock knocking calls. Hendry laid out a tablecloth and served early breakfast of tea, cake and fruits in the light of electric candles.
The dawn turned brighter and the mists started to shift slightly with an uplifting breeze bringing us finally into wraparound fog. Magic moments in the rainforest.
After an afternoon nap, we were out on the trail again for a nighttime bugging session where we spotted a lovely whip scorpion, various bugs, arachnids, and a tiger leech. We searched for the elusive tarsier – maybe we are lucky tomorrow?
Also spotted was an amazing array of frogs.
Our early morning walk next day was up the road to the canopy walkway, a graceful construction of high towers with platforms and walkways spanning long arcs in the canopy from tree to mengaris (koompassia) tree. One section was rebuilt last year because lightning struck the old section and killed the supporting tree.
Our night walk yields a beautiful agamid lizard, an amazing shield bug being attacked by ants and a well camouflaged huntsman with intricate detail. Fire ants find their way into Gen’s leggings and sting hard.
The morning of our last day we go to the canopy walkway again and, on our return packed and trundled our suitcases to the open restaurant where we are amazed by unexpected visitors. Just a metre or so from the balcony, hanging from the branches, grabbing mouthfuls of dark green leaves, are red leaf monkeys, elegant and sad-faced. One of them appears to be strumming a guitar.
Next day we are off at 7am for the jungle trek up the forested hills to the viewpoint which commands vistas of the lodge far down below beside the river and distant clouds floating above swathes of rainforest. Hi-tech has hit the jungle and Hendry uses his walkie talkie to radio our request to have the water tub outside the room filled for our return – pampered or what? Gen’s knee doesn’t play up for the 4.5 hour trek; and I sweat buckets which I replace with a godsent isotonic drink at the top when I’m gasping for breath.
At a junction below the viewpoint trail, we hike to the Coffin Cliff where 150 years ago the local nomadic tribe buried their dead in plain wooden coffins. The tribe kept on the move in the hope of avoiding skin disease (possibly leprosy), but have now settled around Lahad Datu. The last time their elders came out here for a ritual was some twenty years ago.
On the way down, we visit a waterfall for a face wash; choosing modesty in case we skinny-dipped, Hendry stayed behind.
He then shows us a beautiful agamid lizard, clinging like a chamaeleon sentinel to a branch on the trail.
Back at the room I clamber into the outdoor tub – God that feels sooo good and cooling – thank you river for your water.
Almost as soon as I was finished with my soak, we heard loud chirruping, then a small yellow sicklebird knocked itself out on the window and slumped to the floor. As soon as it was ready to show signs of life again, it was back at it attacking its reflection with more angry chirrups. Talk about knocking yourself out!
Next day we were up at 4am to drive in the dark for an hour in a massive, lifted 4wd to the old fire lookout tower next to the GAW (Atmosphere Climate Measuring tower). On the road, several sambar deer scampered out of the way. At the fire lookout tower, we climbed up to the platform and watched the dawn unfold. First glints of yellow and pink turned to streaks of colour across the horizon with the elegant soaring shape of a mengaris tree looming close in the foreground.
The lovely song of gibbons drifted out of the forest which was wreathed in long ribbons of cloud and mist stretching as far as the eye could see. The birdsong symphony struck up a chorus of chirping, calling, trills, warbles, and knock knocking calls. Hendry laid out a tablecloth and served early breakfast of tea, cake and fruits in the light of electric candles.
The dawn turned brighter and the mists started to shift slightly with an uplifting breeze bringing us finally into wraparound fog. Magic moments in the rainforest.
After an afternoon nap, we were out on the trail again for a nighttime bugging session where we spotted a lovely whip scorpion, various bugs, arachnids, and a tiger leech. We searched for the elusive tarsier – maybe we are lucky tomorrow?
Also spotted was an amazing array of frogs.
Our early morning walk next day was up the road to the canopy walkway, a graceful construction of high towers with platforms and walkways spanning long arcs in the canopy from tree to mengaris (koompassia) tree. One section was rebuilt last year because lightning struck the old section and killed the supporting tree.
Our night walk yields a beautiful agamid lizard, an amazing shield bug being attacked by ants and a well camouflaged huntsman with intricate detail. Fire ants find their way into Gen’s leggings and sting hard.
The morning of our last day we go to the canopy walkway again and, on our return packed and trundled our suitcases to the open restaurant where we are amazed by unexpected visitors. Just a metre or so from the balcony, hanging from the branches, grabbing mouthfuls of dark green leaves, are red leaf monkeys, elegant and sad-faced. One of them appears to be strumming a guitar.
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