Brazil - Pantanal Bridge Suspense and Dark Deeds

The Pantanal, a swamp in Brazil, is as big as Switzerland and a bird paradise. Not so cushy for cars, though. Drivers run the gauntlet of dozens of rickety wooden bridges, most of them missing numerous planks. Designed for cattle trucks, the small width of our rental car only allows two wheels on a plank, so we proceed with our heart in our mouth. Gingerly, Gen presses the accelerator. A horrible crashing sound ensues underneath us, and the car partially falls through with the rear suspended over the water.

As the last light fades, a passing local stops, sizes up the situation, and dives into the water to retrieve a plank which we all use to carefully lever the car back onto the bridge. Departing with a friendly 'tudo bem - all's well', he roars off. We labour until midnight, working our way back to the pousada, repairing one bridge at a time, putting one plank before the wheels before inching forward. Toiling on the bridges, our torch beam catches the red eyes of dozens of caimans below.

Myriad insects dance in the beam, whilst a chorus of frogs, nightbirds, and mosquitoes accompanies the grunting of the caimans.


By the light of day, we assess the damage to our rental car which is scratched down the rear on one side and covered in dust. As we drive back to Cuiaba to return the vehicle, we gloomily consider the cost. We know the car hire company allows us to return the car anytime day or night. Back in town, we give the car a wash and wait until midnight to arrange for the rental company to pick up the car from our hotel.

The rental agent appears on time and we lead him out in pitch darkness to the car which we have parked in a sidestreet with the scratched and dented side deep in the shadows. Friendly banter ensues; of course we had an uneventful trip, we say, with a guilty smile. The agent casts a quick eye over the car, cheerily signs the paperwork, and we watch dumbstruck as our bundle of grief disappears into the darkness.