A rough sign in the middle of the road must be approached so that one stops exactly level - no exceptions. Relaxing in some branches or a hut by the side of the road will be an official who may lazily wave you on with 'good morning' or 'you awright?' Or a teenage lad with a gun ambles over to crack a crisp salute and then asks why and where we are travelling. Any attempt to take a photo close to any military habitation is a no-no which will result in smashing of the equipment used.
One individual with bug-eyed sunglasses and a stern Inspector Clouseau manner let us through; another said he thought he recognised me as a long-time Gambian resident and wanted my passport; yet another said he wanted to wish us all Happy Christmas and prosperous New Year in advance.
When necessity strikes the force it is then time for traffic to pay a contribution. Some controllers ask outright; for example; saying they are currently implementing an action plan for their green tea fund; others take a close interest in the size of number plates; number of warning triangles; car papers; anything to elicit a bit of cash for an alleged infringement. A small sum; say; 50 dalasi is handed over and rewarded with a crisp salute and a wave to pass through.
And that is life on the road. Each stop is entirely at the whim of the controller who creams a little of the cash froth off the passing flow of traffic
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